![]() Again as to the cleanliness of the crank, it is brand new. The crank is a NEW Scat and I'm almost positive that there is no bushing as I came sealed in the box from the supplier. Good thoughts and at first I thought that the plate MIGHT have been on backward, but I've checked it against a 305 I just removed and it looks OK. So do I have an incompatible combination (700R4 torque Converter and "old" style crank) or is the flex plate supposed to be "warped" like that? Do I need to shim the starter motor back away from the plate? I'm confused!! Sorry if I confused you, it's kind of hard to explain. So what I am saying is that where the bolts are, the plate clears the bendix and in between it wants to just knick the end of the drive gear. However once all the bolts were in and torqued I noticed that as I manually turned the engine, the areas between the flex plate bolts still wanted to rub on the bendix. So I went ahead and installed the flex plate bolts and found that this drew the plate back away from the bendix drive. I attributed this to the fact that the flex plate had not been bolted to the torque converter yet. Upon investigation I found that the "bendix" drive was engaged in the flex plate by just a few thousandths. Once the starter was installed I noticed it was almost impossible to turn the engine with the harmonic balancer bolt in order to bring it up to TDC. Everything seemed fine till I installed the new high torque starter that I got on eBay from Skip White. I also purchased a new flex plate and B&M 2600 stall torque converter for this installation. The engine has been completely re-built with a new Scat crank and all. I am installing a "86" 700R4 tranny behind a "70" SBC 350 with a two piece seal.
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